Friday, June 6, 2014

Human Resilience


A blog post has been a long time coming!   I have closed a major chapter of my life since my last post, and I am on the brink of opening the next chapter!  (Side note: Just as I was typing this post, I was contacted by the Peace Corps with details for my departure.  I am in Berlin, Germany, right now, but I was able to place a call and book my travel exactly one month from today.  It looks like “real life” will be starting soon, and I am so excited to begin!)
The period of time surrounding my graduation from college was filled with a flood of emotions, packed in between final exams, saying goodbyes, and moving back in with mom and dad.  Now, I am a few weeks and a few worlds away from college, and it feels strangely wonderful to officially be an alumnus.  I have been traveling with my family through Germany, Austria, Hungary, and the Czech Republic for almost two weeks now.  I have seen some of the most incredible sights in Europe and heard beautiful classical music over the past two weeks.  But I have also have run into a few things headfirst that I’ve been thinking about…
I have taught music lessons for many years now.  A few weeks before the end of my last term in college, I was teaching piano lessons to the children of a small family whom I have taught for a few years now.  Teaching presents moments of joy and unique challenges alike for me.  I teach four children in this family; the youngest just turned 5 years old and the oldest recently turned 12.  The children are second-generation Ukranian-Americans, and, like any American kids, are constantly shuttled between travel soccer, hockey, and lacrosse practices and games, dance and gymnastics lessons, and Ukranian language school.  I teach them in their home, in a beautiful, sun-filled room that frames a wonderful grand piano.  One day during our lessons, a tall boy kept poking his head in and out.  After one of the kids finished, I was playing the piano myself when he entered, speaking rapidly in a language I didn’t understand.  Ukranian?  I smiled, confused, and he just gave me a universal symbol – the thumbs up.  He talked a bit more, and I understood that his name was Dima.  He wears an eye patch on his right eye, and dresses like any other teenager.  While I was introducing myself, the youngest child walked in, and we began her lesson.  Dima gave a wave and slipped out of the room.  I told the child, Mia, that her cousin stopped in.  She squinted and said, “He’s not my cousin.”  But she couldn’t quite explain who he was.  We ended lessons for the week, and the boy remained a mystery.
The next week, I was in a meeting a few hours before I was supposed to head to their home to teach.  I received a text message from the childrens’ mother stating that Dima wanted to have a piano lesson that day.  She mentioned that he had never played music before, but seemed to pick up quite a bit of “Fur Elise” while playing on a mobile app earlier that week.  I didn’t have anything to lose, so I agreed to teach him.  I stopped by my house to pick up some sheet music, in case we got past do, re, and mi that day.  An hour later, I was completely flabbergasted.  When I arrived at their home, Dima was all smiles and already waiting at the piano.  I didn’t understand a word he was saying, and he had no idea what I was saying.  So I tried something crazy – I used the universal language of music.  I played the opening of Fur Elise.  Then I slowed it down, and played it line by line for him.  About forty minutes later, Dima could play the entire right-hand melody!  Brimming from ear to ear, he ran to retrieve members of the family, and played for them to much applause.  Music is a beautiful language, and we were able to make music without having a word of spoken language in common.
I learned later just how little Dima and I had in common.  He was 17 years old, and yes, he had come from Ukraine.  But no, he was not on vacation, and no, he was not a family member.  He was a college student in Kiev, and was engaged in the peaceful protests in the city center when snipers opened fire on the demonstration.  Dima was shot through the eye with two bullets that lodged in his mouth. 
His family in Ukraine could not afford music lessons for the boy, and much less so medical treatment for him.  So how did Dima end up playing piano with me?  The concerted effort of the Ukranian Embassy, an NGO, and good samaritans along the way helped Dima get to the United States to get specialized ophthalmic treatment.  Since Dima is a minor, his brother, a law student who was also involved in the peaceful protest, accompanied him.  My students’ father is the Director of the Kresge Eye Institute in Detroit, as was able to find surgeons to help Dima pro bono – without salary.  Dima won’t regain sight in his eye, but reconstruction of his eye and orbit will help him to live a normal life.  My students’ family decided to open their home to the boys during the months when he would receive medical care, and this is how I ended up playing Beethoven’s most famous melody with Dima.
The next week, Dima was already playing when I arrived at their home.  I wish I had half of the musical talent that this boy did!  That day, I taught him the accompanying left hand, note-by-note.  Just when I thought he was exhausted, he said he was ready for more in our language of awkward smiles and hand signals.  Ten or fifteen minutes later, he was playing with both hands and an expressive style that even Beethoven would have approved of.  I couldn’t wait for our next lesson – I had so much new music I wanted to try!  But Dima had other plans.  He arrived at the piano with a leather notebook, and communicated to me that he needed me to write down all the notes.  I let out a huge sigh, but he insisted.  I taught him every note on the keyboard (and, I guess, a different alphabet, too.  “F” is a difficult one for him!).  Then, he wanted me to write down all the notes in Fur Elise.  No, he motioned, the sheet music I brought was not enough.  And his hopeful smile compelled me to agree.  By our fourth lesson, Dima had memorized every note on the keyboard (“F” was still a tough one) and recited it to me.  He could play beautifully, but wanted to say something to me.  He excused himself and came back with a small tablet, loaded with Google Translate.  He spoke into it, and Google translated his sentences into a garbled English that only made me giggle.  Well, I guess we learned that music was a better language, anyway!  Dima thanked me profusely after each lesson, usually coming back to the piano a few more times to say thank you again.  His happiness is contagious.  I wonder if he knows that I look forward to our lessons every week.
I haven’t seen him in over two weeks now, and I know his surgeries are supposed to be complete sometime soon.  I’m not even sure if I’ll see him again.  He taught me a few lessons that I think I needed to learn before I serve a culture far removed from mine.
Firstly, universal languages are the most useful to know.  Music is one of them.  Human emotions – smiles, laughter, tears – are another.  With Dima, my words always failed to get my point across, but these universal language helped us to communicate with harmony.
Secondly, I need to be truly thankful for the rights I hold as an American. It’s hard to understand the privileges that we experience as citizens of the United States from a textbook.  But from Dima’s story, even the youngest child can understand it.  My youngest student, Mia, is 5 years old.  One day, she stopped in the middle of playing a piece and said to me, “Someone hurt Dima when he was just outside.  Not everyone can just go outside like me and be safe.” 
Finally, the resilience of the human spirit is amazing.  Dima was 17 years old, and had a story far removed my reality.  I thought more about the resilience of the human spirit through one of our world’s darkest times during my travels…

In Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, my family and I visited Josefov, the former Jewish quarter.  Anti-Semitism reached a terrible peak during the Second World War, but Jews had been sent to ghettos like Josefov long before the seeds of war were strewn.  To me, the most powerful exhibit in the quarter was one of the drawings of children from the Terezin Concentration Camp.  Terezin was a Nazi concentration camp on the outskirts of Prague, where 150,000 Jews were interned.  The vast majority perished in the camp.  Yet, these drawings are rare proof that somewhat normal life existed in the camp.  One woman, Friedl Dicker-Brandeis, devoted her time to the children in the camp.  She trained them to release their feelings in drawings and poems.  The results are raw and powerful.  Some children drew photos of forced labor and gas masks – stories we know well.  Yet, others depicted everyday life – family meals in the camp, spending time with siblings, even butterflies.  Many depict “transport” – the deportation to death camps.  One statistic that I learned that day echoed in my head.  Out of 8,000 children who lived in the Terezin ghetto, 6,500 were sent to death camps.  Less than 100 of these children survived, not a single one under the age of 14.  Yet, these children drew pictures and composed poems.  They played games and were picky eaters, and made the best of an unimaginable situation.  Friedl Dicker-Brandeis was murdered in Aushwitz, but her suitcase was later found with over 4,500 childrens’ drawings that are preserved to this day.  They are a testament to the resilience of her spirit, and the spirit of thousands of children in the face of terror and some of the cruelest acts our world has ever seen.
Today is June 6, 2014 - four days after my visit to Prague, four weeks after my lessons with Dima.  And, it is the 70th anniversary of D-Day, the fateful day that the Allied Troops invaded the beach at Normandy, and changed the course of the Second World War.  Today, I visited the Germany History Museum in Berlin, Germany, where wounds from the war are not completely healed.  Embedded in a city center with magnificent fountains and ornate domes are exhibits that objectively display some of Germany’s biggest wounds.  Throughout the exhibit on World War II, I picked up on more evidence of the resilient human spirit.  The weak were singled out and murdered by one of the most evil regimes ever known to man.  But the strong stood fast to their principles, and their stories from the war are not often told.  Gerda Langosch was 22 – my age – when the war ended.  She published a diary immediately after the war ended, and it is a story of resilience.  In war, there are no winners – only losers.  World War II was a war that the whole world lost.  The people of Germany were hungry, poor, and tired of turmoil after the war, but they began their lives anew.  After the war, people turned old gas masks into petroleum lamps, and turned tin cans into shovels that were used to clear the ruins of their cities.  Millions of Germans, Soviets, Poles, and citizens from all over the world were lost due to the war, but life began anew for the survivors.
Today, after a day seeing the sights and sounds of Berlin, I flipped on the television in our apartment to a BBC broadcast.  With thoughts of the day still stewing in my head, I listened to world leaders reflect on the 70th anniversary of D-Day.  Our darling Queen Elizabeth of Britain addressed crowds in Paris to honor the French people.  She made a few good points that rang true to me – that all of our actions are measured on how long the good in them lasts.  And, she echoed the same lesson that Mia and I learned from Dima, asserting, “Our peace and prosperity must never be taken for granted.” 
Barack Obama commemorated the soldiers who sacrificed everything they had on D-Day, saying, “Whenever the world makes you cynical [. . .] stop and think of these men.”  President Obama gave us yet another example of the most resilient human spirits, who fought for our principles with the ultimate sacrifice.
President Obama, then, had his first face-to-face exchange with Vladimir Putin, the president of Russia, since Russia annexed the Crimea region of Ukraine.  President Putin also had his first meeting with Petro Poroshenko, the newly minted President-elect Ukraine.  According to BBC news, both called for a quick end to the bloodshed.  In order to make diplomatic agreements, Putin called for an immediate cease-fire before “talks” could begin.
So, it seems that Dima may go home to a country less riddled with violence.  I hope I can see him again before he does.  Regardless, he has taught a sheltered girl from the suburbs of Detroit an invaluable lesson about the resilience of the human spirit that I have explored in contexts far away from home.  In a world where evil can permeate our most intimate moments, we are sometimes shocked by the goodness of some human hearts.  In soldiers who fight fearlessly for ideals, and in college students who express their dissent across the world.  In a world where evil happens every day, we must remember that humans are mostly good, and more durable than any steel.   Human will is stronger than any man-made weapon, and an army of resilience can stand up to any curtain of iron.


Friday, March 28, 2014

“The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under whose shade you do not expect to sit.”


These words are attributed to Nelson Henderson, but I first heard them last night, at a Send-Off Celebration for Peace Corps Volunteers with upcoming departures held in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  We were lucky to be joined by Carrie Hessler-Radelet, the Acting Director of the Peace Corps!  Carrie (can I refer to her by her first name? I guess I just did!) addressed us with some of the most profound and articulate stories I have heard about the lasting impact of Peace Corps service.  All of the returned volunteers, future volunteers, and applicants that I had the privilege to meet last night shared stories and experiences that truly reaffirmed my commitment to service in the Peace Corps.  I even got to meet one volunteer who will be departing with me to Tanzania in July!  During the over-the-top, ridiculously wonderful day that followed, I reflected on these words, and realized how they wed everything that means the most to me.

Today, I was supposed to attend mandatory seminars at the medical school and hospital and a meeting or two.  Today, I actually spent the day running after a group of middle-school students in a Detroit Public School.  Why?  At the end of many frustrating days, sometimes I cannot answer to myself why I put my heart and soul into seemingly random efforts that do not to transform my community overnight.  Today, I realized that each of these efforts might plant a seed that does not take root.  Or maybe, each of these days of service will plant a seed that grows into a trunk, branches, and leaves that will stretch far in a direction that I cannot predict.  Today, I received a remarkable hug from an eighth grader named A’Lonna that made me hope that this seed was a type of the latter.  A’Lonna played the Good Witch of the North in a musical called Munchkin Mediation at this Detroit Public School.  I happened across the group of students putting on this play by chance, and was excited to be able to jump into the production headfirst.

A group of volunteers came with me, as part of Wayne State University’s Alternative Spring Break Detroit program (shameless plug - it is the single best program you will be involved in during these formative adult years!).  Over the course of a week, we got to sing and dance with A’Lonna and her friends.  After our spring break obligations ended, a few volunteers continued working at the school with me.  As we worked, the play transformed from a listless sketch into a musical production with dances, colorful costumes, and plenty of joy.  Most of the students had never sung a note in their lives, but they overcame their jittery legs and puberty-induced voice cracklings to shine in the spotlight today!  Each of these students will graduate from the eighth grade this year, and will move onto to other schools and places where he or she may not ever be a part of another musical.  Most of them will probably forget the time that we spent practicing their parts with them.  Yet, Dominique might pursue acting, after everyone’s coaxing following her performance today.  Nicholas debuted his own spoken word on stage, and I hope he will continue to perform it.  I am quite sure that Riley, our star student, will soon let me know that she’s gotten into her high school of choice.  Maybe I will not hear from the performers in Munchkin Mediation again, or maybe I will run into them in life in the most astonishing of ways.

This kind of service has come to bring me joy for the surprises that it brings down the road.  On the way home from practicing with the kids last week, I hit a pothole (or rather, lunar crater) and punctured my tire.  I took it as a blessing in disguise that a friend helped me to change my tire in a matter of minutes, and we later laughed our way through an evening of dancing.  My tire shop took an eternity to repair my rims and install a new tire, but I had time to befriend a wonderful couple working at the cafĂ© next door.  As I prepare for Peace Corps service that will, inevitably, require me to embrace the unexpected, I’m getting some practice now!  The journey of life is filled with everyday frustrations, and I’m making it my job to find the joy in each moment.  For today, I’ll plant a seed whenever life allows me to, and hope that one day I encounter its shade in a way that amazes me.
A view of the stage before our performance.  Thank you to the 52 students in the Alternative Spring Break Detroit program who came together to create a wonderful set for the production!


Wednesday, February 12, 2014

First Post!

The summer before my senior year of college, I did a lot of traveling.  And then, I did a lot of thinking.  It all started in a rather theatrical moment, as I scooted into a vacant seat on an airplane to peer out of the window.  Rather than water, I was surprised to see the snowy peaks of Greenland rolling underneath the wings of the plane.  For as far as I could see, an expanse of white blanketed a rutted landscape.  In this beautiful scene, I could pick out one small speck of black.  As we drew closer, this speck formed into a lake for an ephemeral second before it escaped behind our wings. 
In this moment, a thousand thoughts were in my head – I had been traveling alone for about 36 hours from the rural village of Mphangala, Malawi.  I was anxious to touch ground in the United States.  I hoped by then, I would be ready to submit my application to medical school, and relieve myself of the bewildering mix of thoughts that was swimming through my head.  I was anxious to hug my parents, and to hold my puppy, for one short night before I needed to pack my things again and move to a summer internship far away.
Yet, in that moment, my head was suddenly clear.  I felt the energy and the power of the good things I had built while working and traveling. I had been able to work with some of the most driven and enthusiastic “change-makers” on the planet, discussing solutions to large-scale problems over a casual rice porridge breakfast.  I wanted to cultivate this energy before it escaped from me.  Instantly, I knew that I wanted to take a larger role in the dialogue that I had just begun.
During the rest of that eventful summer and the seasons that followed, I did a lot of thinking and a lot of praying.  Finally, I have no reservations in saying that I am overjoyed to have accepted an invitation to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Tanzania.  I will serve as a science teacher in a secondary school. I will be able to defer admission to the University of Michigan Medical School until 2017.  I will learn to shake my hips in long skirts, and live my days with the rhythm of the sun. I will eat corn-meal with my hands, and probably parts of a goat that I won’t care to share.  More importantly, I hope to learn to live and love in a community that will become my classroom.  I hope to give the world a reason to dance, and the journey begins here.